I grew up surfing and when I saw that break on the Olympic telecast, I almost shit my pants. My wife wasn’t getting why I was freaking out until I explained and they layer showed how far out the reef break is, how big the waves get, how sudden and shallow the reef is (0-3" when I saw it) and how if you don’t bail you are literally going to be ground meat. She still didn’t quite get it but I was losing my mind.